The Complete Gardener: Great Gardening Tips

Here’s a quiet creation of still pictures and video of my father’s flower garden while visiting the homestead. It’s my small tribute for my family, and for Father’s Day. There’s some very minimal but nice piano music that sounds a little like George Winston interspersed.

Garden Boots

Learn ideas for designing your vegetable garden in this free online video guide to vegetable gardening. Expert: Scott Reil Contact: www.safelawns.org Bio: Scott Reil is an accredited nurseryman and longtime horticulturalist with over two decades of experience in the field. Scott is now working for www.safelawns.org. Filmmaker: Christian Munoz-Donoso

A General Purpose Rock Garden Soil

The gardener knows that there is nothing like coarse, gritty sand for increasing the drainage properties of a soil. He uses it in his cutting bed, in the soil he mixes for potting. So sand will be one of the ingredients.

The roots of rock garden plants, as we have seen, like to cling around the moist surfaces of bits of stone buried in the soil, while the leaves rest upon those pieces which work their way to the surface, thus avoiding direct contact with the dirt.

An important ingredient will be stone chips. Ordinary crushed stone, such as is used for surfacing roads is suitable; this can be readily procured in most sections. If not, bank gravel, preferably not too fine or smooth, and not “washed,” will serve as a substitute.

For our third ingredient, we add humus or decayed vegetable matter, which is found almost invariably in soils in which rock plants grow. This material holds an additional supply of moisture, besides furnishing some plant food. For supplying humus, granulated peat moss is best. It is so slightly acidic that only the extreme lime-loving plants object to it, and it absorbs and holds more moisture than any similar material.

Moreover, it is both pure and absolutely free from weed seeds, an advantage which cannot be overemphasized in rock garden planting. Peat moss is now readily obtainable anywhere; but if you do not happen to have it, finely sifted leaf mold will serve. Commercial humus has more of a tendency than either of the above to get wet or soggy.

Fourthly, and lastly, to give additional body to the plant food, we add good light garden loam. This, however, should be wholly free from clay, which is the last thing, in the way of soils, to be used where rock plants are to go.

All this has required some time in the telling, but if you boil it down it comes to this. To make a satisfactory all around rock garden soil, mix thoroughly together the following:

1 part clean, gritty sand, 1 part stone chips, or clean, gritty gravel, 1 part granulated peat moss, or sifted leaf mold, 1 part clean, light garden loam.

You will have a soil in which 90% of the rock plants you are likely to try at the start will grow satisfactorily.

Special Soils for Special Purposes

Occasionally, however, you will find plants that require something different from the above in the matter of soil; these will grow in the above mixture, but will grow better if their tastes are catered to.

Some insist upon having an extremely acid soil, or a lime soil, in order to survive at all. Such plants as these may either be grouped by themselves, or may be started in pockets filled with a soil supplying their own special dietary requirements.

These special soil mixtures may be made up according to the following prescriptions, the chief changes being an increase in one part or another of the several ingredients. These proportions are approximate; there is no necessity for weighing out the ingredients on a jeweler’s scale.

Acid Soil

1 part sand, 1 part stone chips, 3 parts acid leaf mold (that is, leaf mold gathered from under evergreens, laurels, or the like), Lime or Sweet Soil 1 part sand or 3 parts old plaster, 1 part loan, 1 part peat moss

Dry Soil.

3 parts sand, 2 parts stone chips, 1 part loam, 1 part peat moss

Moist Soil.

1 part sand, 1 part chips, 1 part loam, 3 parts sphagnum moss or granulated peat moss, or both

Fertilizers

For plants other than the true rock plants and alpines-such as garden perennials and annuals, shrubs, evergreens, and most bulbs-and also for such of the rock plants or alpines as take readily to a somewhat stronger diet, very often decayed manure and bone meal may well be added to the general soil mixtures suggested above.

For evergreens, shrubs, or other plants which are to be set around the rock garden, by way of a background or setting, such conditions as are usually provided for them should, of course, be given. Particularly if any specialty garden features have been added, such as those in the Williamsburg Collection, http://technorati.com/videos/youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D9HrZ2bNaiGk.

Do not use any of the commercial fertilizers, except bone meal, and even with this great caution should be exercised.

Lime is not a fertilizer, but may occasionally be needed for the rock garden. If old lime rubbish, which is better for this purpose, is not to be had, ground limestone or gypsum may be used, to modify a soil otherwise too acidic.

Aluminum sulphate, now offered by most seed houses, works in the opposite direction. This may be utilized either to neutralize a lime soil, or, by applying it in larger quantities, to make the soil acid-reacting. Acidic leaf mold, which is to be found in most sections if trouble is taken to hunt for it.

Leaf mold gathered under oak trees is sufficiently acidic for most purposes, if decayed laurel leaves, conifer needles, or rhododendron leaves are not to be had.

For container gardening ideas, search the internet, the library or a bookstore. The challenge is to come up with a pleasing container garden design. There are an unlimited variety of containers available for your container garden. These range in size from small house-plant pots to large boxes and planters. Equally variable are the materials from which they are made. These include wood, glass, clay, aluminum, bamboo, straw, plastic, fiberglass, terra cotta, tin, cast iron, zinc, copper, and brass, each with certain advantages and disadvantages. What you select will depend on availability, cost, background, and appeal not to mention the characteristics of the gardening pots.

Here are some container gardening ideas. In addition to traditional circular pots and tubs, there are modern and ultra-modern forms—square, rectangular, triangular, hexagonal, and octagonal. Also eligible are old iron kitchen pots, kettles, pails, jugs, casks, vases, crocks, jelly tubs, barrels and nail kegs, Japanese fish tubs, old sinks, bathtubs, bamboo soy tubs. There are novelty containers such as driftwood, wheelbarrows, donkey carts, spinning wheels and boxes attached to roadside mail receptacle. There are also bird cages, decorative well heads, animal figures, and Strawberry jars. Woven baskets may be used to conceal unattractive containers. Even tar paper pots, handled by garden centers and florists, are worthwhile if painted or covered to improve their appearance. Any of these can be used in your container gardening ideas.

Where to find your container supplies? Start with what you have. If you scout cellars or basements, attics, garages, and sheds, you will doubtless encounter something interesting. Old-fashioned pots and kettles, often sold in antique shops at country auctions or seen at old New England inns, have much appeal.

Other container garden ideas are to consider old cookie and bean jars, pickle and other types of crocks, wash tubs, coal pails, jardinières, and ceramic bowls. For drainage, spread a thick layer of large pebbles or broken pieces of pots or bricks at the bottom and then water plants with care. In large containers of this kind, drainage material should be several inches thick. Where rainfall is heavy, be sure to keep garden containers without drainage outlets on porches, under awnings or the broad eaves of houses. With pails and old galvanized wash tubs, holes can be easily punctured at the bottom.

Plants in containers without drainage openings remain moist longer. Some of these—crocks, jardinières and cookie jars—are heavy enough to be secure against wind in outside container gardening.

What constitutes the ideal container for your container garden ideas? A container must be attractive, even if it is not an object of art. It should be strong and durable and able to resist all kinds of weather. This is especially true of the large sizes, which usually remain outdoors all year around. In the North, alternate freezing and thawing is a problem in winter (and could cause cracking); in tropical climates, excessive heat, humidity, and moisture are to be considered (and could cause fading). And in semiarid areas, there is the effect of scorching sun to keep in mind, another cause of fading. All these things must be kept in mind when coming up with your container gardening design.

The ideal container must be large enough to hold a substantial amount of soil. It should have good drainage facilities through holes or other openings at the bottom or sides, though this is not absolutely necessary. It must not rust, at least in a single season, and it should have a wide enough base to rest firmly wherever placed. Besides, it ought to be heavy enough to withstand average winds. In severe storms, like hurricanes and tornadoes, movable containers can be shifted to temporary safety. All of these things should be factored in when you are coming up with your container gardening ideas.

Resistance to rot is another requirement. Wooden containers—except those made of rot-resistant redwood, Western cedar, and Southern red cypress—will need to be treated with a wood preservative. Except for permanent containers, the ability to move your container garden is another feature, and sometimes a safety precaution, of portable container gardening. Large boxes and planters can be fitted with wheels, and garden centers have redwood tubs that rest on platforms with wheels. A hole in the platform corresponds to the hole in the tub. Large containers without wheels can be pushed on iron or wooden rollers by two or more persons; however, if you live in an area prone to disastrous storms it is best to keep your containers small.

Smaller containers are ideal for growing herb container gardens. If you plan to plant an herb container garden be imaginative Here are some container garden ideas for herbs that go well together.

For an Italian selection try Sweet basil, Italian parsley, Oregano, Marjoram and Thyme.

For a lovely scented container use Lavender, Rose scented geranium, Lemon balm, Lemon thyme, and Pineapple sage.

For really great salads try Garlic chives, Rocket, Salad burnet, Parsley, Celery.

And to say “We love French Cooking!” use Tarragon, Chervil, Parsley, Chives and Sage.

Any of these will liven up your cooking and please your family.

So these are just a few container gardening ideas. Get out a pad of paper and make up a container garden design that will please the eye and maybe even the palate

Happy Container Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

Destroying pop cans with gardening equipment

Installing garden decking boards represents a financial investment which can help increase the value of your home. Care and maintenance are essential to keep the garden decking in prestige condition. There is also an important safety aspect to keeping your garden decking clean as it will prevent the surface from becoming a slippery over time.

Materials: warm water, soda crystals, chemical agents (optional) 

Tools You’ll Need: stiff household broom, pressure washer (optional)

Before You Begin: The cleaning process is likely to take some time, make sure you have the time and do not rush the job. For better results, clean your decking in summer when the decks are dry.

Step 1 : Clear the decked area – Make sure the decking surface is free of any obstacles so you can concentrate on cleaning rather than moving toys, chairs and tables around. Do not drag any piece of furniture around therefore you should consider getting a helping hand for this step.

Step 2 : Brush thoroughly – Using a stiff broom give the deck a thorough brush followed by jet wash using a pressure washer if you have one to get rid of dirt and debris. Do not use an industrial grade pressure washer as it might damage the wood, those used as multi-purpose home jet cleaners will work just fine.

Step 3a : Use warm water and soda crystals – To clean the decked surface on a budget and to minimise wastage, use warm water and soda crystals. Spray warm water over the decked surface and sprinkle soda crystals. Leave the decking for a few hours and once dry brush using a stiff broom.

Or

Step 3b : Use dedicated cleaners – Soda crystals are fantastic for cleaning garden decking, but they take a while to dry. There are a number of chemical agents which will both clean and rejuvenate the timber. Look out for a chemical agent specifically designed for your type of timber which can vary from ipe decking to teak decking etc and purchase it from a reputable source. Normally those chemicals are highly concentrated therefore one to two liters will do.

Step 4: Rinse the deck once again – After you have completed the cleaning process, rinse the deck area completely to remove any trace of the cleaning solutions and chemical agents. Allow the deck to dry completely before replacing furniture and other items on the deck surface.